I was being sarcastic yesterday when I said that Vyšehrad is a stepstister castle. In fact, this fortified settlement was once the royal residence until Prague Castle was constructed. Legend has it that its fair princess had premonitions of the future glory of Prague from her seat at Vysehrad. Today, it is an easy walk to cover the fortress–especially compared to the enormous grounds of Prague Castle–in park-like settings.
You can see most of the area between the Leopold Gate
and the Brick/Prague Gate in a couple of hours, even with some loitering:
One of the key structures here is the Church of Saints Peter & Paul. It’s not so big as it is tall…almost impossible to get a picture of the entire church even from the other side of the street. The sun is preparing to call it quits for the day by the time I get here, so I’m able to catch the church facade in various colors…
Remember what I said about Prague being a land of spires?
Another significant stop on these grounds is Vyšehrad Cemetery, where many famous Czechs are buried, including noted composer Antonín Dvořák.
Tonight’s meal will be my last dinner in Prague. I feel like I’ve eaten tons but still hungry, seen a lot yet not enough. I suppose wanderlust always leaves you craving more, whatever it is that you’re looking for. Tomorrow to wrap up the Prague visit, I’ll post photos from Charles Bridge, seen at various times of the day. For now, I’m debating where I should find my last Czech supper…perhaps somewhere around here,
where I can enjoy this lunary view of Prague Castle…
Tags: Antonin Dvorak, Brick Gate, Church of Saints Peter & Paul, Leopold Gate, Prague Castle, vysehrad, Vysehrad Cemetery
It’s not really possible to determine where Prague Castle begins or ends; it is considered one of the biggest in the world. This sprawling 70,000 m² castle compound consists of palaces, ecclesiastical structures, gardens, galleries, riding centers, and other buildings dating back to the 10th century. It’s not until I examine the map a few days later do I realize that when I thought I was lost, I was already on castle grounds. Prague Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and as I’d mentioned before, it embraces all kinds of architectural styles since the construction of the complex spanned several centuries.
Right in front of these big gates to the First Courtyard, where the hourly changing of the guard takes place,
there is a huge intersection where people gather to observe, eat, drink, or just somehow manage to not get separated from their tour group.
In fact, people linger here, at the top of the hill, because the view is just beyond infinity…
But I’m anxious to go inside the gate,
past the courtyard then through another gate,
only to encounter an even larger courtyard,
over which the spires of St. Vitus Cathedral loom magnificently:
Prague isn’t called the city of a hundred spires for nothing! But I’ll leave St. Vitus for another entry because it’s so special. Anyway, the tourist information office is here in this main courtyard and you can buy a ticket for a short or long tour. I opt for the long tour because the ticket is good for 48 hours and I already know I’ll need a second day here to even make a dent. In hindsight, if you are not a museum-friendly kind of tourist, buy the short tour instead and spend more time outdoors.
I’ll take you through some of the stops on my long tour tomorrow, and we will start here…
Tags: Prague Castle, spires, St. Vitus cathedral, UNESCO World Heritage site
I’ll admit it, it’s a little daunting to see the busy, uphill paths that await me once the Charles Bridge is behind me…
But interestingly enough, the heat and crowd that defeated me yesterday now buoy me. There’s a great sense of unspoken camaraderie among tourists experiencing Prague for the first time. We’re all suffering through the heat and hills en masse but also sharing in the wonderment of it all at the same time. The Hradčany or Castle District/Quarter is a hilly, beautiful area…
sprinkled with embassies,
government offices,
monasteries,
museums,
and churches…
But of course, we are all here to see the Prague Castle. It’s supposedly so prominent and large that you could probably see it from space (if you squint real hard); you really can’t miss it. I’m here to tell you I missed it. All those pictures you see above were taken during the 80 minutes or so of getting lost in this district. When I ask the local merchants for directions to the castle, they look at me as if I’m asking them to help me find my nose. Sigh.
But it’s ok, it’s a real treat to get lost on these grounds, near a vineyard where panoramic views of the city can be enjoyed for as long as my patience allows:
Right by the above precipice is a garden of pear trees, across from a hillside vineyard. It’s here that I find an Italian family doubling over with laughter. The grandfather and his granddaughter are picking pears from the trees while being boisterously coached by the other family members. We take each other’s pictures and turns at the picking:
I forget to ask if they know where the castle is because I’m still giggling over this:
But finally, finally, finally, just up this last hill,
Prague Castle is within reach…meet you there tomorrow!
Tags: Castle District, Charles Bridge, Hradvany, monastery, Prague Castle
