My mom asked me why, in my earlier European reports, the towns looked so empty, from Belgium to Luxembourg. It’s most likely that tourism is down but even more so that I try to find empty streets wherever I am to take photographs. But here in Prague, it’s been quite difficult to avoid the crowds except when I’m in the more residential areas well outside of the sightseeing quarters. Even late in the evening, people are everywhere, enjoying the summer warmth. So one day, I am on the streets by 5am.
My grogginess is quickly replaced by the thrill of having the city, then bridge, much to myself. The only other people around me are stragglers stumbling home from a night of partying or die-hard photographers trying to capture the still of the twilight hours. Like me.
The problem with being a twilight chaser, besides sleep deprivation, is that you have to move fast. It’s literally seconds to get your shot when the sun decides to set or rise. Once the sun is down or up, it’s game over. And the other problem is, no matter how many times I’ve waited for the moments before sunset or sunrise, I’m always so stunned by the colors when it happens that the photography falls by the wayside. I just want to stand there and watch…and then kick myself for not getting the perfect shots. It’s kinda like that on the Charles Bridge this early morning; in fact even worse when exchanging cameras with others…
Before I know it, it’s full-fledged morning…
and a small peloton has arrived on the bridge:
It’s still very early, but bright enough for me to get some clear, unobstructed shots of the saints:
These are all shiny from the rubbing,
that I myself managed to do during my first visit that day on a very crowded bridge:
I wish I could get a shot of all the saints’ faces on this bridge,
but given their heights it’d be impossible for me to do:
Anyway, one last rub of the saint for good luck,
and it’s time to go back to the hotel for a quick rest before another full day continues..
If I could find a moment of solitude like this in every city I visit, I’d stay a twilight chaser forever.
Tags: Charles Bridge, Prague
I’ll admit it, it’s a little daunting to see the busy, uphill paths that await me once the Charles Bridge is behind me…
But interestingly enough, the heat and crowd that defeated me yesterday now buoy me. There’s a great sense of unspoken camaraderie among tourists experiencing Prague for the first time. We’re all suffering through the heat and hills en masse but also sharing in the wonderment of it all at the same time. The Hradčany or Castle District/Quarter is a hilly, beautiful area…
sprinkled with embassies,
government offices,
monasteries,
museums,
and churches…
But of course, we are all here to see the Prague Castle. It’s supposedly so prominent and large that you could probably see it from space (if you squint real hard); you really can’t miss it. I’m here to tell you I missed it. All those pictures you see above were taken during the 80 minutes or so of getting lost in this district. When I ask the local merchants for directions to the castle, they look at me as if I’m asking them to help me find my nose. Sigh.
But it’s ok, it’s a real treat to get lost on these grounds, near a vineyard where panoramic views of the city can be enjoyed for as long as my patience allows:
Right by the above precipice is a garden of pear trees, across from a hillside vineyard. It’s here that I find an Italian family doubling over with laughter. The grandfather and his granddaughter are picking pears from the trees while being boisterously coached by the other family members. We take each other’s pictures and turns at the picking:
I forget to ask if they know where the castle is because I’m still giggling over this:
But finally, finally, finally, just up this last hill,
Prague Castle is within reach…meet you there tomorrow!
Tags: Castle District, Charles Bridge, Hradvany, monastery, Prague Castle
I load up on sugar during this morning’s breakfast at a nearby patisserie in anticipation of another full day of walking while dodging the throng of tourists at the famed Charles Bridge. These tourists, to be exact:
In this square before you cross over the bridge, there are beautiful churches and buildings of historical significance. What you will notice is that in front of almost all churches they are selling tickets to evening concerts of classical music. Truth be told, I’m already a bit dizzy from the heat and crowd. I have on clothes of breathable fabrics like cotton and linen but I’m definitely feeling warm…
Charles Bridge (Karlův most) is a Gothic stone bridge commissioned by Charles IV in 1357 to connect the two banks of the Vltava River. There are some 30+ statues of saints along the bridge, and each end of the bridge is marked by a tower. I’m questioning my sanity for not bringing a hat, but I’ve come a long way to see this bridge, so let’s stop dilly dallying and cross the street –do you see that tower?
Now that we’ve crossed the street, let’s see what’s to our left:
As soon as I cross under the tower, all of my uneasiness dissolves. There are musicians, artists, tourists, pilgrims of all sounds and shapes basking in the sun, pushing without too much shoving:
And then I see my first saint. Followed by another, and another…
People are speaking in a million different languages around me, but this song is all I hear in my head:
- We are trav’ling in the footsteps
- Of those who’ve gone before,
- And we’ll all be reunited,
- On a new and sunlit shore,
- Oh, when the saints go marching in
- Oh, when the saints go marching in
- Lord, how I want to be in that number
- When the saints go marching in
It’s not possible to stop and get clear shots of any of the statues due to the size of the crowd. But no worries, I tell myself, by the time I cross back later this afternoon there should be less craziness. At this point, I just want to safely get to the other side for my next destination, Prague Castle, which you can see sitting high above the hill beyond the bridge:
Without traffic it would take maybe ten minutes to cross the bridge, but this morning it is closer to half an hour. But we all manage to the opposing tower:
And the crowd scatters into the city…
I’ll meet you back here tomorrow to check out what’s on this side of the bridge:
PS: I’m sorry if the pictures take a while to load at my blog. I try to include high resolution pics so that if you click on any of the photos, you can see a clearer, enlarged picture. But in doing so, it tends to take a bit longer to load the photos (depending on your connection speed, too).
Tags: Charles Bridge, Charles IV, Karlův most, Prague, saints, Vltava River
Before I got to the Dancing House in yesterday’s entry,
I had actually zipped back to my hotel to freshen up. The day had warmed up big time by mid-afternoon so I changed into a sleeveless Marni top and a pair of flip flops.
I get my second wind and walk along the main streets that border the Vltava River:
There are so many grand buildings all over Prague,
and once in a while I’d see the antique cars that you can rent to tour the city in–they come with a chauffeur:
Everywhere I look there are dramatic, ornate statues…
This sprawling one is my favorite:
I’m amused to find a painting of it hanging on the wall of a restaurant I pop inside to consider for dinner (but I ultimately choose not to eat here):
I finally cross over to the boardwalk to preview tomorrow’s tour of Charles Bridge:
It’s at this point that my camera’s battery starts flashing, telling me I’m almost out of juice.Which is just as well; I’m heading back to the city center…
for dinner with one of these…
followed by some of this:
It’s a short walk back to the hotel from dinner, which is a good thing because I’m pooped; it’s been a heady full day in Prague. One last picture at the hotel before my camera completely dies:
Tags: Charles Bridge, Dancing House, Marni, Prague, Vltava River
