Bitchin’ To Be In Binche

 

So yesterday I was so excited to post pics of the Gilles that I really didn’t do the city of Binche any justice. Let me rewind and retrace my steps now that I’m a little less sleep deprived.

Binche is about a 45-minutes drive  outside of Brussels, and when you reach the city, it appears to be a quiet, unextraordinary town.  Once I set out on foot, however, and join the masses, the city comes to life and it’s…well, pretty bitchin’ to be in Binche.

Before I reach the main square of the city, I walk down crowded cobble-stoned streets strewn with confetti. Store and apartment windows are displayed with symbols of the carnaval. If you recall from yesterday’s blog, some of the Gilles carry a similar wax mask.

 

Anyway, before I even encounter my first Gille, I come across their plumed hat behind a store window and my heart does a little cartwheel.  I know this is going to be a special experience.

 

As I get a few more blocks closer to the main site of the parade, I begin to see wire screens on all of the windows. They are there to protect windows from oranges that are thrown during the parade. All around there are also little stands selling mimosa pins.  In this photograph, I manage to capture both the screens and the pretty yellow flowers:

 

It’s not long before I see the first group of Gilles jingling down the street. They usually walk around in a group of 4 or more, accompanied by a drummer. They stop and say hello to anyone who wants a picture or has questions about their tradition. They can also stop anywhere they want for free food and drinks. I get a big smooch from one enthusiastic Gille who’s perhaps had too many free drinks!

 

Besides the overwhelming sounds of the large crowds and clomping feet of the Gilles, I’m drowning in the smell of the frites, gauffres, beignets, and mitraillettes. And you know what they say about being in Belgium…you gotta give in to the heart-failure-inducing frites and pastries…and I do!

 

So anyway, with 4 hours to kill before the actual parade, I take in some sightseeing in the historic center of the city. There is a beautiful museum about the masks and carnaval here with some photo ops for tourists in the courtyard:

 

The streets in the historic center date back to medieval times and there are reminders of the past everywhere. But today, on the biggest day of the festival season, it’s really about the children and carrying out the tradition for future generations. It’s much like Halloween in the US with kids all dressed up in costumes:

 

What I love best, though, is seeing kids from around the world here. I spot these two young Chinese children in front of a church picking up confetti as their parents are looking at a guide book:

 

In fact, I see lots of kids trying to pick up confetti everywhere, and kids just running around having a great time being kids.

Anyway, about an hour after touring the very small town center, I queue up to save a spot on the parade route at the main square. It is another 2.5 hours before the parade enters the square, but the wait is well worth it…the excitement is palpable once we can see the white plumes undulate their way toward us:

 

I know I’ve already posted so many pictures of them yesterday, but here are a few more to show how large (and heavy) and gorgeous these hats are. 

 

In fact, during the parade you can see just as many hat carriers as there are Gilles. I love these next two pictures that capture how enormous the hats are!

 

And many of the Gilles are hunched over from the weight:

 

I’m truly impressed by their love of the tradition–it can’t be easy to clomp around in uncomfortable wooden shoes, dance nonstop, balance a heavy hat, and also manage to throw oranges at the screaming crowds. 

 

Here’s a short clip of me dancing with the Gilles, and I haven’t even had any alcohol yet:

 

So can you imagine what the streets must look like after two hours of orange tossing?

 

It’s not pretty for the people who have to clean up after the festivities, but for a first time visitor like me, moments like this one captured below are forever ingrained in my mind. And my life is enriched for it. See you back stateside in a few days.

Tags: Binche, carnaval, frites, Gilles, plumes

 

Mardi Gras usually conjures up thoughts of heavy partying and debauchery, but this year, I find a whole new way of celebrating in Binche, Belgium. With a population of about 33,000, Binche is a Walloon municipality most famous for its carnival, listed in 2003 by UNESCO as one of the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in the world.

 

From Fat Sunday through Fat Tuesday, tens if not hundreds of thousands of people around the world gather in this town to celebrate, and all partying must cease by sunrise of Ash Wednesday.

 

There are several types of costumes prominent during the festivities…

 

 

 

with the most famous being those worn by the Gilles:

 

Their harlequin costumes are adorned with national symbols and bells, stuffed with straws, complemented with wooden sabots, and finished off with heavy hats of ostrich plumes (which are not worn until the parade). I must have taken 500 pictures of their hats. I’m obsessed and wonder how to score a hat for my own collection.

 

During the parade they throw blood oranges to the crowds. When they walk down the street, you can hear them jingling and stomping their feet to the sounds of the accompanying drummer.

 

I don’t know about you, but after encountering my first group of Gilles, I can’t stop dancing with them.

 

There are about 1,000 living Gilles, all males, who range in age from 3 and up.

 

I will blog more about my day at Binche (the actual experience of being here for the carnaval) in tomorrow’s post as I’m all pooped out for now. I’ve been cramming too much stuff into my last week here in Europe and feel exhausted. But I’m thrilled to have been in Binche for this very special experience. All told, I catch 3 oranges and am handed 9 others along the parade route.  I’m jingling oranges in my bulging messenger bag and coat pockets to the beat of the clomping Gilles and can’t be happier. I hear during the carnaval at Dunkerque the crowd is tossed plastic lobsters which can be exchanged for live ones unless you want to keep the plastic one as a souvenir. Can’t wait to get there next time around!

Tags: Belgium, Binche, carnaval, Gilles, Mardi Gras, oranges

 

The carnaval season kicked in last week but the real festivities are just now starting to pop up all over Europe. On Sunday I head to the town of Stavelot, which I blogged about earlier, to check out the famous Blancs Moussis.

 

As soon as we pull up into the cobblestoned parking lot, I spot them in their white capes and long carrot noses darting back and forth from place to place.  I even get one of them to mug for the camera:

 

I’m excited! We walk back to the Abbey so I can retake some photos that had crashed earlier on my digicam:

 

The Tourism Information center is also located inside this abbey, and I have to tell you, go check out their restrooms if you come here. They are an amazing amalgamation of stones, rocks, cement and just cool modern design. Anyway, the line is too long there so I refrain from taking photos, but when I’m ready to build my dream house, I’m coming back here for inspiration.

Anyway, I’m halfway tempted to check out the 3 museums under this one roof but the blancs moussis I spy out of the corner of my eye from across the courtyard are making me insane. I want to hunt them down and see what mischief they are up to. The lady at the Information desk, however, sadly informs me that the carnival in Stavelot actually doesn’t happen till next Sunday. I’m one week too early. The good news, though, is that the parade in nearby Malmédy (which consists of four Cwarmê days of Grandes Haguètes) is probably just starting as we speak. We run to our car and head to the nearby village. As we cross the border, we see the crowds. Parking is a pain to find in the sloshy rain, but luckily, by the time we rush to the town center, I manage to squeeze on top of a ledge with the help of nice strangers.  

The first thing I see is a marching band in chinoiserie uniforms. The crowd is hopping to the music:

 

Behind and in front of each marching band there are people in all kinds of colorful uniforms. The clowns have the extra long arms to reach into the crowd and pet your heads or tickle your chins. Mostly they just sprinkle confetti all over you.

 

Here are some sights and sounds:

 

One of the funnier things is the long broomstick made of palm leaves that the clowns carry to reach deep into the crowd:

 

In fact, I get a “broomover” in my face at the very end of this video:

 

Amidst all the craziness, every so often you’d see a group of men in white pants and striped hats with the long carrot noses weaving in and out of the crowd. They are actually hard to catch on film but here they are:

 

There are also floats and all kinds of zaniness:

 

And finally, the oranges are out! The orange throwers are in white costumes with ruffled, layered collars:

 

Here’s a video of them throwing oranges my way. Persevere through the rough video and see if I catch an orange or not…vive le carnaval!

 

Tags: Belgium, blancs moussis, carnaval, cwarme, grandes haguetes, Malmedy, oranges, parade, Stavelot

 

Venice is about as touristy as it gets, but I’ve stumbled into a town that’s literally preserved for tourism. Touted as the world’s smallest town, Durbuy makes a perfect weekend getaway or sleepy honeymoon spot.

 

When I first drive through this town, my immediate impression is that it’s like a backlot of a movie studio or an amusement park built by Disney. 

 

There is the requisite chateau surrounded by a charming village…

 

and in this case there is a wonderful topiary park at the base of the hill, along a rambling river…

In fact, this topiary park boasts some 250 topiaries of all shapes and sizes. Unfortunately the park is closed for the winter so I can only take exterior shots.

 

As I stroll through the old town center, there are numerous hotels and B&Bs…

 

and an endless number of restaurants and boutiques…

 

In fact, it seems that there are only hotels, restaurants and boutiques in this extremely clean town. It’s truly enchanting.

 

Granted Durbuy is not picture perfect like Bruges and probably doesn’t offer too much beyond a romantic escape (though just outside of the village are numerous tour operators for kayaking and other outdoors activities for the summer crowds), it is still a sweet little spot in Belgium. Good things do come in little packages.

Tags: Durbuy, topiary