My first Belgian Christmas dinner was not too, too different from the ones I’ve had elsewhere…lots of caloric overindulgence followed by attempts to work off the meals–to no avail of course! Because tons of cooking usually means lots of leftovers which means even more eating the next few days.
Anyway, I was invited to a lovely Christmas dinner which started around 6:30pm with some apéritifs and finger foods…
Then it was time for the appetizer–escargot and wild mushrooms lasagna,
and my hostess made a non-dairy version for me:
Then the entrée was a plate of various types of Belgian seafood specialties–saumon fumé, flétan fumé, crevettes grises, and maquereau fumé avec grains de poivre, and sprats fumés–my favorite was definitely the smoked mackerel:
At this point I was already quite full. But there was another round of grilled sea bass with spinach puree for those who did not want roasted chicken. Did I already mention the mushroom gravy and potato fritters? The photos stopped at this point because I could barely move from my seat; I was afraid I’d have to be rolled out of their dining room.
But something else rolled on to the table and it was a plate of special cheeses from around the world, including one of my favorites, the French Comté…I know, I was more stuffed than a Thanksgiving turkey but I saw the delicious baguette and I had to have some with the cheese:
And then what we’d all been waiting for all night…dessert. The first picture in today’s entry shows that sinfully delicious melts-in-your-mouth-chocolate-blended-with-crushed-almonds-then-chilled concoction, complemented by fruits, mango sorbet, and other Italian biscuits and candies. The actual name of this cake is Sicilien au chocolat. But OMG those grapes? They were sensational…they were rolled in sugar then frozen. They explode in your mouth in taste and texture. So simple yet so satisfying! This picture is of someone else’s plate that also included home-made tiramisu:
I simply died, and died again this morning when I ate another chocolate heart that was in my doggy bag. By the way, the gorgeous fruit you see below (aka Chinese lantern or coqueret) also goes by the poetic name of l’amour en cage:
Anyway, it’s not really a Christmas dinner unless some presents are passed around, right? Lucky for me I was also included in a few surprise presents! There were books (always a treasured gift for me),
trinkets (btw, that’s that Gucci cardigan I posted about a few entries ago when I picked it up on my way to Taliesin West; it’s worn over my Cavalli black knit dress…remember when I said knits were the perfect attire for big dinners?!),
and a plushy feet warmer shaped like a pig:
OK, also head warmer if you’ve had too much vino:
I hope you had a good Christmas day, too.
Tags: aperitifs, Belgian, Cavalli, chinese lantern, Comté cheese, coqueret, escargot lasagna, Gucci, smoked mackerel
This year, just like last year, I wish to find a teleporter under the Christmas tree and free global wifi as a stocking stuffer. But with the worldwide financial crisis going on I doubt Santa has the resources to get me these presents any time soon. He’s lucky to not have to lay off any elves.
So for now, I should just be thankful for things like Skype on my iphone for the days overseas and wikipedia to look up obscure facts when insomnia strikes. Christmas isn’t so much about checking off a want list in a commercial frenzy as it is about finding little joys in your daily life throughout the year.
Most of all, I hope you all find a little bit of this in your holiday season…
Merry Christmas everyone! Can’t wait till 2010!
Tags: Christmas, Skype, teleporter, wikipedia
I’ve blogged numerous times about Antwerp (Antwerpen/Anvers), one of my favorite cities in Belgium. But I don’t think I ever mentioned the most popular story behind how the city got its name. Legend has it that there was once a giant named Antigoon who charged a toll on shippers crossing the river Scheldt. If they failed to pay the toll, he’d cut off their hands and toss them into this very river. One day a young hero, Brabo, defeated the giant and threw Antigoon’s hand into the Scheldt. This same lore hence explains the name Antwerpen as having derived from the Dutch words hand werpen (werpen = to throw):
Walking around the streets of this culturally diverse city during the holidays is a fantastic experience…
and Antwerp’s Christmas market is one of the better ones I’ve seen so far. It is held at the Groenplaats, just in front of the Hilton:
There seem to be better vendors to me, even if overall the merchandise is more or less the same…
The requisite outdoors ice skating rink is also there, in front of City Hall:
And near the front entrance of the grand Cathedral of Our Lady there’s a life sized nativity scene,
which you can recreate yourself in miniature sizes by buying the individual pieces at the church’s gift shop:
If you’re waiting for another gratuitous picture of the Belgian waffle, it won’t happen in Antwerp. Because when I’m in this town, it’s a tradition to get dim sum instead…and I got a lot of it earlier today…
which might explain why I’m working off my heavy lunch by offering to work for Santa Claus…
Sure hope I get to wake up to a white Christmas tomorrow morning!
Tags: Antigoon, Antwerp, Brabo, Cathedral of Our Lady, Christmas market, nativity scene, Scheldt
Don’t squint. There’s nothing wrong with your computer screen, or your eyes. Relax and sit back. It’s just me taking you through a hazy dream tunnel…
and sooner or later your vision will become clearer…
But trust me, when we arrive at the little town of Durbuy, you will think you are still dreaming and have to pinch yourself…
because can any tiny town be this beautiful except through the magic of Hollywood or Disneyworld? Well, in this case, it’s a mix of smart tourism planning and luck from Mother Nature. I’d taken you to Durbuy before on a slightly warmer day, but in the winter time, Durbuy’s Christmas Market is a real joy to behold:
On the ground, the world’s smallest town is bustling with visitors bundled up in their winter clothes while browsing for holiday gifts…
or chasing the cold with some hot wine, Christmas boudins, or tartiflette
at tall dining tables under heat lamps:
As for me, I’m still feeling like the Michelin man in my winter clothes…
as I walk through the quaint streets soaking in the holiday spirits…
But you know, the good thing about wearing big jackets is that you can stuff your tummy with rich food and no one’s the wiser–yes, I have my third Belgian waffle in as many days…
yet still find room for the monstrously delicious croustillons,
also known as heaven in confectioner’s sugar:
So while hopped up on sugar, I make another round of the tiny town,
and end up at this very same spot (btw, doesn’t that tower look like a face?)…
that I showed you the last time I was in Durbuy…
and I must say I’m a little more in love with the town under snow
because it makes me want to do this…
and this…you’d better duck–I have a pretty good arm!
My Balenciaga bag and I will see you at the next market…
Tags: Balenciaga, Belgian waffle, boudin, croustillons, Durbuy, tartiflette
We’re only a few days away from Christmas so I’m taking a break from Fes to report to you live from the Belgian Christmas markets.
At the moment I’m somewhat snowbound. Ice,
snow and sleet
take turns at this same window that greets me each morning–though by yesterday’s late afternoon the snow melted just in time…
for me to watch the Christmas fireworks…
over the famed Citadelle that rises majestically above Namur’s Christmas market:
Anyway, on the day that I venture out to the Marché de Noël in my host family’s pretty town,
I am wearing a blend of Look 4…I’ve been fighting the subzero weather in my trusty Prada ski jacket, Hogan shearling boots, and Chanel muffler and earmuffs on top of about 3 or 4 layers of clothes:
And still, the minus 6 weather (even the locals are shocked by this winter’s early biting cold) feels very much like being in an igloo in a swimsuit. No amount of clothing seems to keep me warm enough. The few minutes that I remove my gloves to take these pictures feel like hours, and I have to rush back inside a store to thaw. The pain in my fingers and toes is an all too familiar one I experienced earlier this year from frostbite so I know better than to dilly dally outside in the cold.
But luck is all relative, and it’s what you make of it. If it weren’t cold enough for snow, I wouldn’t be having quite the same white experience at these markets. After a few, I can tell you that there are basically the same vendors of artisan crafts and local foods…
but the markets just feel more Christmasy because of the snow. Everything looks more festive, more like a true winter wonderland:
In particular at the Namur market, there were an ice sculptor
and a small parade re-enacting the Régiment des Canaris…
But I know what you’re waiting for, and here it is. When in Belgium eat as the Belgians do (the gaufre is cute with the earmuffs, non? hehe)…
See you at the next market tomorrow in one of my favorite little towns in the whole world.
Tags: Belgium, Chanel, Christmas market, Citadelle, gauffre, Namur, Prada, Regiment des Canaris