One of the best vantage points in Toledo is from the Victorio Macho Museum, previously the home and studio of a Spanish sculptor. From his courtyard patio you have unobstructed views of the hills and water
as well as access to his prolific art collection:
Art can be found everywhere in this town, but it shouldn’t just be for the eyes. Toledo is also known for marzipan, a confection of ground almonds, egg whites, and sugar that’s molded into all kinds of shapes. It can be decadently sweet and rich, so I like to savor a bit at a time over a strong tea or coffee:
Speaking of art for the mouth, I have to say I am quite impressed by the abundance of gastronomical restaurants in such a small town (I walk by at least two 4-star Michelin restaurants after lunch). Quality is obviously a high priority in kitchens of all price points here. Case in point is where I have lunch–Alfileritos 24–a modern looking restaurant on an unassuming, ancient street…
just around the corner from a highly recommended place that seems to be crowded with visitors:
I opt to not follow the stream of tourists and am rewarded for my decision because once seated at my cozy table, I am treated like a princess by the staff (can I please also comment how quickly food is served everywhere around Spain!) and the food couldn’t be more delicious from start to finish:
BTW, how about a fashion interruption right here. It’s really hard to feature what I’ve been wearing on my trip because I’m bundled up like a Michelin man in my coat, so it’s only when I’m eating that I can get a shot of the outfit du jour. In this case it’s the navy and grey Chanel 08A turtleneck…
worn with a JCrew winter 2009 cardigan that luckily matches exactly in color scheme–I had it on when I was on the train, before the wine arrived and warmed me up–
But back to the food! My dessert choices are cakes and tarts of the day, but I’ve been seeing this everywhere all around Spain so I order the tortitas con nata y chocolate liquido. Looks like American pancakes, but not quite the same…
So marzipan and dining are the third reason why you should visit Toledo. Tomorrow I’ll conclude my Toledo visit with reason number 4. I’ll sign off now with a few more pics:
Tags: Alfileritos 24, Chanel, JCrew, Michelin, Toledo, tortitas con nata, Victorio Macho Museum
Today it’s all about El Greco, or Doménikos Theotokópoulos (Δομήνικος Θεοτοκόπουλος), the famous artist born in Crete of Greek origin who is most well known for dramatic portraits with haunting, gaunt faces. He moved to Toledo at the age of 36 and worked there till his death in 1614 at the age of 73. He was a painter, architect, and sculptor. A true Renaissance triple threat.
Near here,
is his house that also serves as a museum. Unfortunately it’s shuttered for restoration when I get there:
So I make my way to the Church of San Tomé, El Greco’s parish church,
where one of his most celebrated paintings, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, hangs on its humble wall. This is long considered a Spanish masterpiece for its unusual composition, filled by a literal and philosophical divide between heaven and earth. The faces in this painting are so solemn yet expressive. If you observe well the locals walking around Toledo today, you can still see the same characteristics that El Greco captured perfectly in oil on canvas back in 1586.
Since we’re in a church and all, I have to make a confession here. I know you really shouldn’t take pictures when it says no photography allowed, but I have adored El Greco for a very long time and I HAD to sneak one when the guard sneezed and blew his nose. Suffice it to say I didn’t get a great shot:
But you can tell how big the painting is. There are better pictures and more information on this work here .
Most people pay to view just the painting and then move on to the next stop. But do go around the side and visit the small church. If anything, it is nice to sit there for a few minutes and imagine where El Greco might have meditated in any of these pews and drew inspiration:
Anyway, while the restoration is underway at the El Greco Museum, all of his paintings can be viewed together at the Real Fundación de Toledo, which shares space at the nearby Victorio Macho Museum. But what rotten luck–when I get there, the curator tells me that the paintings are on loan for an exhibit in Mexico City. This is when a teleporter would come in handy!
What do you say tomorrow I take you to lunch then we’ll talk about the other two reasons I came to Toledo.
Tags: Church of San Tomé, Doménikos Theotokópoulos, El Greco, Real Fundación de Toledo, Spain, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, Toledo, Victorio Macho Museum
